Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az



Excellent point, Ken. The worst we get here is a week or so below freezing maybe once a year, the rest of the winter days usually are above freezing. I don't know if there would be a difference between being frozen a short time vs being frozen for months. Another question would be if you can get a bond using slip forms in long term freezes.

Luckily for me, I won't get to experiment with this unless I throw some fresh slurry into the freezer  : )

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  

On 11/9/2011 9:28 AM, ken winston caine wrote:
Spaceman may have experience with some hard-freeze locations and want to add to this or correct me on this.


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Update on my project



found online:

1. Traditional Dirt (Blended Soils), Barley Straw (for fibrous bonding) Water Susceptible
2. Semi Stabilized Dirt (Blended Soils), Barley Straw and 4-5% Asphalt Emulsion Water Proof
3. Fully Stabilized Dirt (Blended Soils), Barley Straw and 8-10% Asphalt Emulsion Can be left exposed

"For fully stabilized adobe bricks, add 6 to 12 percent asphalt emulsion or Portland cement by weight to your mix."

This sounds about right based on what I remember of my one experiment ten years ago. It might be a good starting place even though pc is certainly not adobe. It might be more applicable to padobe.


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Update on my project



If I were doing a Hogan I think Judith's slip form methods would work great. You end up with a monolithic structure since added layers bond to the lower layers. There is a lot to be said for only handing your pc once after it is mixed. Park the mixer next to the forms and pump it in, you can't get much easier than that.

Unless you plan on doing blocks by driving over a brick mold, a good pump is probably about the second most important equipment you can get for pc, right after the mixer. You can fill forms by bucket and it is a lot cheaper than Gold's Gym, but I'll pass when I can  : )

When I tried AE I put about a pint into maybe 3 gallons of pc, and that was probably way too much. I don't think you need to make black pc to get a seal. I never tried other ratios, but am interested in what your tests reveal. Another bit of information that would be useful is how well pc with AE bonds to other layers and/or mortar.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  

On 11/9/2011 9:17 AM, ken winston caine wrote:
  --- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Othello English <ifilmswest@...> wrote: 
 Interesting post...several Hogans where I'm at...thinking of building one.  Question - what   method and PC to AE mix ratio do you use? 
 Am still experimenting with that. Will report what works best for me once I'm pretty sure I've discovered that. However, I'm not using a traditional papercrete recipe. For instance, in current experimental mixes, I'm using no portland.   Do believe that the AE portion can be relatively low (and thus, not prohibitively expensive), but don't have a ratio to offer yet.   


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Re: [papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az



On the north side of the house water in a bucket might stay frozen for a week or two at a time.  But I think we can also put the pc blocks in our new hoophouse to dry as we planned with adobe blocks.  It'll be a while until it's filled with plants and at least the blocks will stay dry and a little warmer.

Christine

At 09:28 AM 11/9/2011, you wrote:

Spaceman is a wealth of knowledge and has been super helpful to me.

His experience regarding freezing weather may not apply to you since you, like me, too, live in an area that hard freezes in the winter. If you do a pour in December or January (or even some years, in November), it is possible that it will not completely thaw until sometime in early June. Where Spaceman lives, it is more likely that during the coldest weeks of winter the pour would thaw and refreeze daily for a week or two before curing completely.

Where I am, a bucket of water left outdoors will freeze in November and will continue to have a solid block of ice in the bucket until very late spring. The block may melt a bit some days, enough that it begins to float on an inch or two of water, but it will refreeze as soon as the thermometer drops below 32.

If you have tons of forms, you can probably pour bricks and just leave them frozen and have tons of bricks come summer. If you are pouring courses into slip-forms for a wall on a building, I don't think you can go beyond your first course until the weather warms.

Spaceman may have experience with some hard-freeze locations and want to add to this or correct me on this. I'm a novice.



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Re: [papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az



That's good news, thanks!  Now if we only had better equipment, there's a lot we could do this winter,

Christine


At 07:40 AM 11/9/2011, you wrote:

 

Nothing happens to it. I have done pc in the winter many times, even having to break icicles off the mixer drain before starting. Never saw any difference with that pc vs pc done in warmer weather.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  


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[papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az

Spaceman is a wealth of knowledge and has been super helpful to me.

His experience regarding freezing weather may not apply to you since you, like me, too, live in an area that hard freezes in the winter. If you do a pour in December or January (or even some years, in November), it is possible that it will not completely thaw until sometime in early June. Where Spaceman lives, it is more likely that during the coldest weeks of winter the pour would thaw and refreeze daily for a week or two before curing completely.

Where I am, a bucket of water left outdoors will freeze in November and will continue to have a solid block of ice in the bucket until very late spring. The block may melt a bit some days, enough that it begins to float on an inch or two of water, but it will refreeze as soon as the thermometer drops below 32.

If you have tons of forms, you can probably pour bricks and just leave them frozen and have tons of bricks come summer. If you are pouring courses into slip-forms for a wall on a building, I don't think you can go beyond your first course until the weather warms.

Spaceman may have experience with some hard-freeze locations and want to add to this or correct me on this. I'm a novice.

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[papercreters] Re: Update on my project

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, Othello English <ifilmswest@...> wrote:
>
> Interesting post...several Hogans where I'm at...thinking of building one.  Question - what
>
> method and PC to AE mix ratio do you use?

Am still experimenting with that. Will report what works best for me once I'm pretty sure I've discovered that. However, I'm not using a traditional papercrete recipe. For instance, in current experimental mixes, I'm using no portland.

Do believe that the AE portion can be relatively low (and thus, not prohibitively expensive), but don't have a ratio to offer yet.

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Re: [papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az



Nothing happens to it. I have done pc in the winter many times, even having to break icicles off the mixer drain before starting. Never saw any difference with that pc vs pc done in warmer weather.

spaceman  All opinions expressed or implied are subject to change without notice upon receipt of new information.  

On 11/8/2011 4:27 PM, Christine Baker wrote:
We just brought a little cement mixer out to do some papercrete blocks for our next addition (above the windows and doors, adobe is too heavy).  Now that it's colder, we have extra electric since the batteries are full by noon. (off the grid)  But what happens when papercrete freezes before it's dry?

Christine


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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

[papercreters] Re: Adobe vs PC in North Az



To eliminate confusion, I had sent an email to Othello:

Where are you N AZ?  We're near Meadview and Grand Canyon West.  You're way ahead of us with PC, but we do a lot of adobe work.   Just don't have the PC equipment (yet). 

We haven't been up to Grand Canyon West since they built the Skywalk, it's a major tourist trap now and way expensive.  But if anyone is heading that way, we're only a few miles from the road up and sometimes we can see the helicopters land there after accidents (tourists and buses drive like maniacs).  We always enjoy visitors!

So you're up around Flagstaff I take it. COLD!!!  Was in the low 20s here last night and we have to finish our new hoophouse and got more mud work to do.  We've been using adobe to rat/mouse/squirrel proof around garden beds, greenhouses and the bottom part of fences and it's worked extremely well for over 2 years.  Also have a small adobe addition that NEVER freezes without heat, even when it got down to 4 degrees last year the low in there was over 40.

We just brought a little cement mixer out to do some papercrete blocks for our next addition (above the windows and doors, adobe is too heavy).  Now that it's colder, we have extra electric since the batteries are full by noon. (off the grid)  But what happens when papercrete freezes before it's dry?

Christine




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[papercreters] Adobe vs PC in North Az

We would prefer to work in adobe vs PC for several reason but the

nearest clay deposit where we're building is far enough away to make it

economically unfeasible and PC makes a good substitute. @Christine I

know that area very well...son has a few acres there...rocks and malapi

are killer, you couldn't pay me to walk on that bridge though (scared

of heights), but the relatives (flatlanders) got pretty excited.

Helping another son build a PC structure just west of

Sunset Crater, who thinks we should build a Hogan next...I said I would

think about it. I've also found that paper left in the elements pulp

easier with a pressure washer.

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Re: [papercreters] Update on my project



Interesting post...several Hogans where I'm at...thinking of building one.  Question - what

method and PC to AE mix ratio do you use?  Where we are (Northern Arizona), it appears

like the way to go for large roofing tiles. 

     Thanks to the posters on here we use a power sprayer hooked to a pressurized water

pump powered by a generator...it works better than I thought.  The first thing we built was a

1000 gal water tank using mostly PC some rebar and Portland...it turned out more labor

intensive than we'd figured but it's done. 


     It's man/woman against nature out here right now, and I've recently found that certain

mineral spirits that slightly oil the insides can somewhat compensate for non elastic

tendons and muscle.  Some of my ancestors are from Scotland so my choice had been

rightly made, Good Luck with your project, in one way or another we're all pulling for

you.

--- On Sun, 11/6/11, ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:

From: ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Update on my project
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 6, 2011, 10:46 AM

 

Well.... I've run into winter.

Completely underestimated how long this would take me. But I should give an update since everyone has been so helpful here as I planned this and pushed forward with it late summer.

- One setback. Was finally just starting to build my mixer three weeks ago and injured a tendon and/or ligament in my elbow region and pretty much lost use of my right (dominant) forearm and hand for a couple weeks. (Still giving me lots of trouble and doesn't like for me to lift more than a pound or two at most.) That was a huge setback and frustration. Because I thought I had just enough time to get one shell of a building up and sprayed before winter would hit. Didn't get that far.

So here's how far I have gotten:

-- Came up with and modeled an octagonal hogan-like design that I THINK will be structurally sound and that will use metal conduit for basic framing.

-- Site cleared, leveled.

-- Nearly all equipment purchased that I will need in order to spray and pour my 'crete mix. (Experience so far tells me that I will discover quite a few more little things -- and maybe a big one or two -- that I will need yet, as I progress.)

-- Still gathering some things like windows. Have some nice ones. Need more. Need to find a couple exterior doors, too. Free_cycle has been really helpful with this. As has the "free" section on Craig's List.

-- Secured an "endless" free paper supply. Will be hauling tote-loads all winter, I suppose. Am going to need to pick up more totes and to find a good way to keep the paper dry. Will share what that "endless supply" is once I have all that I need for my project. Don't know how long it will be available if lots of people, or several, were to seek the same permission that I have obtained. So need to remain quiet about this right now.

-- Secured an "endless" free burlap supply and have collected enough so far to skin the first pod that will go up.

-- Have secured a free source for plastic 30-gallon and 55-gallon drums. Still need to collect a few more. Seem to be able to come up with about one per week in the nearby small city (Santa Fe, 70,000 population). If I ventured to Albuquerque (about 110-mile roundtrip) and contacted sources there, could probably get all I needed within two or three weeks. I can haul four at a time on my little flatbed trailer. Two or three trips would give all I think I will need for various purposes on this project. But I haven't explored the possibilties in Albuquerque since I have a source for them in Santa Fe, which is much closer.)

-- So far have obtained about a thousand 55 lb. grain bags (poly) for free for use in the foundation rings of the various building pods. (Sand filled, leveled, then asphalt-emulsion coated.) Since I have all winter to think about it and raise more money for the project now, may rethink this and do a more traditional foundation come spring. Then, what will I do with all those bags?

-- Obtained several super-heavy cardboard totes (275 gallon) which I intend to "rub-r slate" and test. (Will do one as a test to see how well it will hold liquid once treated inside and out. If works well, then two of these will become the tanks for my septic system and I will experiment with using one for the tank for my pull-behind papercrete mixer.)

-- Purchased one metal-reinforced/caged plastic tote (275 gallon). Will use that for my mixer tank if the rub-r-slate treated cardboard tote will not do the job. Otherwise, the plastic tote (filled with water and sitting inside in front of large south-facing windows) will become thermal mass for my solar heating in one pod.

-- Have spent roughly twice what I thought it would cost so far and still need to raise some more for the project. And things have taken at least twice as long as I thought they would. Part of that is because I adjusted my approach several times as I learned more about all of this and started experimenting with things. Part of that is just the way it is. (We always need to allow more time than we think we'll need.)

-- My old Subaru Legacy wagon is sagging in the rear from pulling my flatbed trailer on maybe a thousand miles worth of trips hauling supplies the last couple months. Probably needs new struts all the way around. An unanticipated and necessary expense I'll have to budget for.

-- Originally was hoping to get one livable pod up and shelled before I hit the freezing weather. And then work on its interior a bit all winter and when it's warm enough again in late Spring, start on the other pods. Doesn't look like I made it. Should we have a sudden 10 or 14-day unusually warm spell this month -- which is not predicted -- I might still get there. But that doesn't seem likely.

So it seems like my project may be in rest state now 'til late Spring due to the freezing weather. Freezing every night. Far too chilly to be outdoors working with water and papercrete. Does warm up into the high 40s or low 50s by about 2 in the afternoon most days. And then I have about 2 hours at best of daylight. And don't know how well papercrete can cure if it is going to freeze overnight. So don't know how wise it would be to attempt to pour or spray during that two-hour window of "warmth."

- Now I need to figure out an effective way to cover and keep dry all the equipment and supplies I've gathered. Poly tarps seem to have about a 45- to 60- day life at the maximum in the New Mexico sun. Stuff is on pallets, so don't have to worry about it soaking up moisture from below. But am going to need to keep rain and snow off it. And somehow manage to keep the tarps on during the wicked late-winter, early-Spring windstorms.

-- Remains a slight possibility that I can get one pod framed and burlap skinned here in the late fall. And maybe -- maybe -- I can manage to give it a half-inch thick coating of asphalt-emulsion stabilized papercrete so that I will have a weatherproof shell of a building up and in which I could move much of the stuff that needs to be kept out of the weather. If that happens, I'll be videoing the process and will report about it here. Won't be skinning a frame unless I'm sure I can get at least one coat of a shell material onto it. (Otherwise the sun and weather will destroy the burlap before spring.)

Thanks again for all the help so far. And am looking forward to spring.

-- ken



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Monday, November 7, 2011

[papercreters] Re: Update on my project

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "ken winston caine" <kwc@...> wrote:
>
> Well.... I've run into winter.

Hi Ken and group,

Sounds like you have a good start and have most of the material to take up any free time that comes up.

I'm working to build a double pipe frame dome insulated with papercrete and skinned in cement soaked burlap. What did you find as a good source for burlap?

I've too have been working on the gathering of materials and tools, and now have a 2K pound hammer press set up with dies to press the EMT pipe. In the time it took to do all that I could have easily created the frames by hand! I guess I wanted to also develop the capability to do more.

Some say the paper only gets better as it's aged in the weather, so I'd just cover it enough to keep it from blowing around.

Good luck with your projects and put that arm in a sling. If you don't give it a long rest it'll never get better.

Joel in California

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[papercreters] Re: Update on my project

Thanks so much for the recycled billboard plastic tip, Clarissa.

And I lOVE "Peace and Harmony or Else." If there was a "Like" and "Share" button on that, I'd click them.

-- ken

P.S. Yeah, I know about the torn tendon needing lots of gentle time to heal. Went through a torn rotator cuff eight years ago. Also important to keep it in gentle motion to keep scar tissue build-up down and retain range of motion. And at the same time, NOT re-injure it. Am expecting to be tough as nails by Spring.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, cloud wall <windwalkerwill@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> We had a bit of winter weather (some snow, lots of wind and rain) to remind us to speed up the projects that need to be done before winter really sets in. Now, we're blessed with a 12 day window of great working weather so, we are working like mad.
> Have you thought of using recycled billboards instead of tarps?

<snip>


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Sunday, November 6, 2011

Re: [papercreters] Update on my project





We had a bit of winter weather (some snow, lots of wind and rain) to remind us to speed up the projects that need to be done before winter really sets in. Now, we're blessed with a 12 day window of great working weather so, we are working like mad.
Have you thought of using recycled billboards instead of tarps? I found them to be much sturdier. The fact that they have 3" sleeves around the edges, rather than grommets (aka wind targets) let me use diamond braid rope to secure them instead of the weather challenged conventional ball bungees. You get to use a recycled product and they are cheap. I am using a couple of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250537218764?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Those injuries usually take a while to heal and, if you push it, usually end up re~injuring your self so I'm hoping you find a way to get done that doesn't abuse your arm.
Clarissa
Peace and Harmony or Else



--- On Sun, 11/6/11, ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:

From: ken winston caine <kwc@mindbodyspiritjournal.com>
Subject: [papercreters] Update on my project
To: papercreters@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 6, 2011, 12:46 PM

 

Well.... I've run into winter.

Completely underestimated how long this would take me. But I should give an update since everyone has been so helpful here as I planned this and pushed forward with it late summer.

- One setback. Was finally just starting to build my mixer three weeks ago and injured a tendon and/or ligament in my elbow region and pretty much lost use of my right (dominant) forearm and hand for a couple weeks. (Still giving me lots of trouble and doesn't like for me to lift more than a pound or two at most.) That was a huge setback and frustration. Because I thought I had just enough time to get one shell of a building up and sprayed before winter would hit. Didn't get that far.

So here's how far I have gotten:

-- Came up with and modeled an octagonal hogan-like design that I THINK will be structurally sound and that will use metal conduit for basic framing.

-- Site cleared, leveled.

-- Nearly all equipment purchased that I will need in order to spray and pour my 'crete mix. (Experience so far tells me that I will discover quite a few more little things -- and maybe a big one or two -- that I will need yet, as I progress.)

-- Still gathering some things like windows. Have some nice ones. Need more. Need to find a couple exterior doors, too. Free_cycle has been really helpful with this. As has the "free" section on Craig's List.

-- Secured an "endless" free paper supply. Will be hauling tote-loads all winter, I suppose. Am going to need to pick up more totes and to find a good way to keep the paper dry. Will share what that "endless supply" is once I have all that I need for my project. Don't know how long it will be available if lots of people, or several, were to seek the same permission that I have obtained. So need to remain quiet about this right now.

-- Secured an "endless" free burlap supply and have collected enough so far to skin the first pod that will go up.

-- Have secured a free source for plastic 30-gallon and 55-gallon drums. Still need to collect a few more. Seem to be able to come up with about one per week in the nearby small city (Santa Fe, 70,000 population). If I ventured to Albuquerque (about 110-mile roundtrip) and contacted sources there, could probably get all I needed within two or three weeks. I can haul four at a time on my little flatbed trailer. Two or three trips would give all I think I will need for various purposes on this project. But I haven't explored the possibilties in Albuquerque since I have a source for them in Santa Fe, which is much closer.)

-- So far have obtained about a thousand 55 lb. grain bags (poly) for free for use in the foundation rings of the various building pods. (Sand filled, leveled, then asphalt-emulsion coated.) Since I have all winter to think about it and raise more money for the project now, may rethink this and do a more traditional foundation come spring. Then, what will I do with all those bags?

-- Obtained several super-heavy cardboard totes (275 gallon) which I intend to "rub-r slate" and test. (Will do one as a test to see how well it will hold liquid once treated inside and out. If works well, then two of these will become the tanks for my septic system and I will experiment with using one for the tank for my pull-behind papercrete mixer.)

-- Purchased one metal-reinforced/caged plastic tote (275 gallon). Will use that for my mixer tank if the rub-r-slate treated cardboard tote will not do the job. Otherwise, the plastic tote (filled with water and sitting inside in front of large south-facing windows) will become thermal mass for my solar heating in one pod.

-- Have spent roughly twice what I thought it would cost so far and still need to raise some more for the project. And things have taken at least twice as long as I thought they would. Part of that is because I adjusted my approach several times as I learned more about all of this and started experimenting with things. Part of that is just the way it is. (We always need to allow more time than we think we'll need.)

-- My old Subaru Legacy wagon is sagging in the rear from pulling my flatbed trailer on maybe a thousand miles worth of trips hauling supplies the last couple months. Probably needs new struts all the way around. An unanticipated and necessary expense I'll have to budget for.

-- Originally was hoping to get one livable pod up and shelled before I hit the freezing weather. And then work on its interior a bit all winter and when it's warm enough again in late Spring, start on the other pods. Doesn't look like I made it. Should we have a sudden 10 or 14-day unusually warm spell this month -- which is not predicted -- I might still get there. But that doesn't seem likely.

So it seems like my project may be in rest state now 'til late Spring due to the freezing weather. Freezing every night. Far too chilly to be outdoors working with water and papercrete. Does warm up into the high 40s or low 50s by about 2 in the afternoon most days. And then I have about 2 hours at best of daylight. And don't know how well papercrete can cure if it is going to freeze overnight. So don't know how wise it would be to attempt to pour or spray during that two-hour window of "warmth."

- Now I need to figure out an effective way to cover and keep dry all the equipment and supplies I've gathered. Poly tarps seem to have about a 45- to 60- day life at the maximum in the New Mexico sun. Stuff is on pallets, so don't have to worry about it soaking up moisture from below. But am going to need to keep rain and snow off it. And somehow manage to keep the tarps on during the wicked late-winter, early-Spring windstorms.

-- Remains a slight possibility that I can get one pod framed and burlap skinned here in the late fall. And maybe -- maybe -- I can manage to give it a half-inch thick coating of asphalt-emulsion stabilized papercrete so that I will have a weatherproof shell of a building up and in which I could move much of the stuff that needs to be kept out of the weather. If that happens, I'll be videoing the process and will report about it here. Won't be skinning a frame unless I'm sure I can get at least one coat of a shell material onto it. (Otherwise the sun and weather will destroy the burlap before spring.)

Thanks again for all the help so far. And am looking forward to spring.

-- ken



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[papercreters] Update on my project

Well.... I've run into winter.

Completely underestimated how long this would take me. But I should give an update since everyone has been so helpful here as I planned this and pushed forward with it late summer.

- One setback. Was finally just starting to build my mixer three weeks ago and injured a tendon and/or ligament in my elbow region and pretty much lost use of my right (dominant) forearm and hand for a couple weeks. (Still giving me lots of trouble and doesn't like for me to lift more than a pound or two at most.) That was a huge setback and frustration. Because I thought I had just enough time to get one shell of a building up and sprayed before winter would hit. Didn't get that far.

So here's how far I have gotten:

-- Came up with and modeled an octagonal hogan-like design that I THINK will be structurally sound and that will use metal conduit for basic framing.

-- Site cleared, leveled.

-- Nearly all equipment purchased that I will need in order to spray and pour my 'crete mix. (Experience so far tells me that I will discover quite a few more little things -- and maybe a big one or two -- that I will need yet, as I progress.)

-- Still gathering some things like windows. Have some nice ones. Need more. Need to find a couple exterior doors, too. Free_cycle has been really helpful with this. As has the "free" section on Craig's List.

-- Secured an "endless" free paper supply. Will be hauling tote-loads all winter, I suppose. Am going to need to pick up more totes and to find a good way to keep the paper dry. Will share what that "endless supply" is once I have all that I need for my project. Don't know how long it will be available if lots of people, or several, were to seek the same permission that I have obtained. So need to remain quiet about this right now.

-- Secured an "endless" free burlap supply and have collected enough so far to skin the first pod that will go up.

-- Have secured a free source for plastic 30-gallon and 55-gallon drums. Still need to collect a few more. Seem to be able to come up with about one per week in the nearby small city (Santa Fe, 70,000 population). If I ventured to Albuquerque (about 110-mile roundtrip) and contacted sources there, could probably get all I needed within two or three weeks. I can haul four at a time on my little flatbed trailer. Two or three trips would give all I think I will need for various purposes on this project. But I haven't explored the possibilties in Albuquerque since I have a source for them in Santa Fe, which is much closer.)

-- So far have obtained about a thousand 55 lb. grain bags (poly) for free for use in the foundation rings of the various building pods. (Sand filled, leveled, then asphalt-emulsion coated.) Since I have all winter to think about it and raise more money for the project now, may rethink this and do a more traditional foundation come spring. Then, what will I do with all those bags?

-- Obtained several super-heavy cardboard totes (275 gallon) which I intend to "rub-r slate" and test. (Will do one as a test to see how well it will hold liquid once treated inside and out. If works well, then two of these will become the tanks for my septic system and I will experiment with using one for the tank for my pull-behind papercrete mixer.)

-- Purchased one metal-reinforced/caged plastic tote (275 gallon). Will use that for my mixer tank if the rub-r-slate treated cardboard tote will not do the job. Otherwise, the plastic tote (filled with water and sitting inside in front of large south-facing windows) will become thermal mass for my solar heating in one pod.


-- Have spent roughly twice what I thought it would cost so far and still need to raise some more for the project. And things have taken at least twice as long as I thought they would. Part of that is because I adjusted my approach several times as I learned more about all of this and started experimenting with things. Part of that is just the way it is. (We always need to allow more time than we think we'll need.)

-- My old Subaru Legacy wagon is sagging in the rear from pulling my flatbed trailer on maybe a thousand miles worth of trips hauling supplies the last couple months. Probably needs new struts all the way around. An unanticipated and necessary expense I'll have to budget for.

-- Originally was hoping to get one livable pod up and shelled before I hit the freezing weather. And then work on its interior a bit all winter and when it's warm enough again in late Spring, start on the other pods. Doesn't look like I made it. Should we have a sudden 10 or 14-day unusually warm spell this month -- which is not predicted -- I might still get there. But that doesn't seem likely.

So it seems like my project may be in rest state now 'til late Spring due to the freezing weather. Freezing every night. Far too chilly to be outdoors working with water and papercrete. Does warm up into the high 40s or low 50s by about 2 in the afternoon most days. And then I have about 2 hours at best of daylight. And don't know how well papercrete can cure if it is going to freeze overnight. So don't know how wise it would be to attempt to pour or spray during that two-hour window of "warmth."

- Now I need to figure out an effective way to cover and keep dry all the equipment and supplies I've gathered. Poly tarps seem to have about a 45- to 60- day life at the maximum in the New Mexico sun. Stuff is on pallets, so don't have to worry about it soaking up moisture from below. But am going to need to keep rain and snow off it. And somehow manage to keep the tarps on during the wicked late-winter, early-Spring windstorms.

-- Remains a slight possibility that I can get one pod framed and burlap skinned here in the late fall. And maybe -- maybe -- I can manage to give it a half-inch thick coating of asphalt-emulsion stabilized papercrete so that I will have a weatherproof shell of a building up and in which I could move much of the stuff that needs to be kept out of the weather. If that happens, I'll be videoing the process and will report about it here. Won't be skinning a frame unless I'm sure I can get at least one coat of a shell material onto it. (Otherwise the sun and weather will destroy the burlap before spring.)

Thanks again for all the help so far. And am looking forward to spring.

-- ken

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